Showing posts with label catskills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label catskills. Show all posts

Monday, May 30, 2011

A Home for Bambi and Scorsese


When I was 4 years old my father had quit a very good job at Monsanto (the same company you know, but not yet associated with Food Inc.) and we traveled by Datsun across the country from industrial Ohio, to the redwoods of Northern California. We stopped to climb every rock, and to hike every park a 4 year old could hike throughout the Rockies. We saw the Petrified Forest. We gazed down into the Grand Canyon. This was such a wonderful choice on my parents part to get me experience with the National Parks, and luckily for us the parks were not crazy with traffic yet as they are now. Still there was another part of this childhood adventure that sticks with me, and must certainly not be accurate, for the metaphorical significance is too obvious, and too much a part of my thinking now to have been literal. Coming through the vast dessert of tumble weeds and cactus’s we arrived in Las Vegas, which was still the city of sin, with only one exception, being the child friendly Circus Circus Casino, which was not far from the great casinos of legend. Still for me, Vegas was mostly lights, which were neon and spectacular, and a hotel pool, and a color television in the room. Here is where my mind must be playing tricks on me. In my memory the movie theater at the hotel was playing the Scorcese Film “Taxi Driver”. Though I had never been in a taxi, I remember this, because I did take a taxi in Vegas at 4, and my mom pointed out the marquee to me. The other thing I remember is that I watched a televised version of Disney’s “Bambi” from the bed of the hotel. This does not sound so exceptional, but the lessons of Bambi and Taxi Driver have never really left me, as I confront my love and hatred for both the city and the country.

By 2006 I had lived in New York for 11 years, and seen the transformation from the world that Travis Bickle deplored in Taxi Driver. I had seen the” scum washed away”, but like so many of us, understood that nothing  ever truly gets washed away into nothingness. It just goes somewhere else. So as Time Square was cleared of overt prostitution, violence, homelessness and even dirt, most of us knew that there was a wasteland hidden somewhere out of site, and that out of sight does often indeed mean out of mind, and this can be very dangerous. Those of us who were young adults during the Giuliani administration disliked him, more out of this sense that he had done the cleanup, and we didn’t even know where the trash was. Even worse we were starting to get the feeling that what replaced the filth of 42nd St. was a different kind of perversion. 42nd St. became known as Disney Street, and the entirety of Manhattan got swept up in a Disney dream. Was this what Travis Bickle wanted? With all of this came high rents, high priced homes, and along with the “scum” that    Bickle referred to, the artists, and the creative class as a whole left the city. Somehow Disney did for the people of Manhattan what it did for the wetland wildlife of central Florida. It just took over through city and state subsidies and tax abatements, and while we remained filled with anxiety like a hot afternoon on line with our kids for the Dumbo ride, we started to look outside to fill the newly fermented void.

My wife and I had a 1 year old daughter, and we had just spent a rather horrible year, with a couple of major exceptions. Mostly the exception was having the daughter, but also while I was being treated for cancer in the winter, my friends Jenn Gambatese and Curtis Cregan, brought us up to a little town in Delaware County New York where we could rest away from the city at their country home. It was a weekend of a huge snow storm, so it wasn’t exactly the wild life that impressed me, but rather the potential of it and nature as a whole. I had somehow gotten lost in the city, in my own sickness, and by some strange set of circumstances my parents actually moved to Disney World, or at least close enough in a Disney built town called Celebration. So a connection with nature had become skewed for me. The promise of the Catskills brought that back, and in the spring we started to look for a second home in that area. We didn’t have much money to spend, and we didn’t care. The point for us was to have the opposite of what our city life was. We didn’t (and still don’t) have a phone line (no cell service in the mountains), the internet or a television. We have the mountains. We found our small place during a rain storm (as you can see rather snow or rain, storms are not uncommon in the Catskills), on an unpopulated state highway in a valley of the Delaware Headwaters outside a small town called Roxbury. For the 3 other houses nearby, this stretch of valley is known as the tundra, as it receives more moisture than any other area in the state, or at least it seems that way. But it is absolutely beautiful. I healed there, and continue to go there for inspiration, and hikes up the mountains, and cross country skiing through the woods. I pick vegetables with our kind neighbor Vesti who along with her husband Chuckie have an amazing small organic garden, and it is connected to ours. We have wonderful friends in the Catskills, who have taught me a lot, and friends who like ourselves are weekenders in the Catskills who we would have never known without being up there. That said, I missed something crucial which was somehow in my blind spot, and I can’t now get it out of my vision. The poverty, the desolation that was missing in the city, did flow somewhere, and ironically that somewhere is to this very place where we get our drinking water from in New York. This is most clear when you drive one mile from our house, on the bank of a watershed protected zone, there are piles of tires rotting from a long ago bankrupted business.  Just in the time we have been up in the Catskills we have seen this happen to fallen barns, farms, and old store fronts. We have seen the prices of houses cut in half. We have seen alcoholism on a level I have never experienced anywhere else, and we have seen all around desperation to survive during the cold winters. While I was peacefully composing music looking at the mountain, people not far from me who I cared about were trying to find wood to heat their homes.

Last year we went to live in Paris for a year, for what was the best year of my life. Just before leaving for that trip I read a bestselling nonfiction book called “The World Without Us”. The premise of the book is likely familiar to many of you reading this. It is basically how our planet would look after humanity disappeared. The big surprise for most of us was that without us, our presence on the planet would fairly quickly disappear. Cities would be buried and rapid decomposition would happen. Other forms of life would become more dominant, and others vanish. Really though the book was just a great naturalist read, reminding us that in the big picture of time we have taken up only a small spot. I finished the book, liked it, but wasn’t terribly moved, until I returned back to the Catskills from that year in Paris. Suddenly I saw that in many places nature had started to take back the territory. The depressing state of the region though, now seemed to me like a call for a different type of action than I had supported before I went to Paris. I likely had been so attached to the places and the people that I had not noticed fully the problems. Before I left I wanted to support local business. I wanted to bring farms, storefronts and factories back to the region. Now I realize that it is not only too late, but that perhaps the decay should even be embraced, and like so much of the country and the world, urbanization allowed to flourish, while nature takes back those places such as the Delaware Valley where we get our water from.

This of course leaves a major problem, and that is how do people who struggle to live inexpensively go to get work in more expensive urban areas? My wife Marine proposed a compromised solution which is eco-tourism along the northeast train routes. This is a reasonable start. I am skeptical about the  eat local movement for instance because local usually means taking small amounts of food by pickup truck 3 hours, leaving virtually no environmentally positive impact. So if small rotating crop farms were along major train routes, it accomplishes two things; the food can be brought to the city more efficiently, and people can come to the country more easily. My suggestions come a lot more from my background as a technologist. I want to actually build back the cities that have languished recently, like my home town of Akron Ohio, by building a new type of technology workforce. The same could be said of nearby Albany, or Newark New Jersey.

So, I give only vague answers I know, and am not sure if this blog gives an optimistic or pessimistic outlook on the future, but for me it is somehow possible and positive. I want the country to be the home of the real Bambi’s of the world, and our cities to have a little Disney and a little Taxi Driver, but a lot of people, clean drinking water and affordable living.

Sunday, April 5, 2009

The Next Round

Almost two years ago my wife and little girl fell asleep at the normal times at our new, little house in the Catskills. Though we had owned the place for several months, it was likely only our third or so visit, as our pipes had frozen over the winter, and it took months to get them repaired. Because of this I didn’t know the area well, which made it all the more difficult to figure out where I would go to watch the Mayweather v. De La Hoya fight. We don’t have a tv in the Catskills, and even if we did, pay per view would not be possible, as cable is not yet running its way to the mountain where we live. So, I headed out to find a bar where the fight, expected to be the most watched in over a decade, was on. My first stop was in the nearest town to us, Roxbury. As far removed as Roxbury is from any major city, or even any major highway, I was surprised by how sophisticated the night life was. In a town of 2000 people or so, there were two gay bars, both very hip, making it seem more like Greenwich Village, than a remote mountain village. While this would have been fine on a normal night, the gay bars were not showing the fight. I did notice one strange thing at the first place I went to. Besides the upper middle class New York clientele, there was also a local man drinking Bud Light, and shots of bourbon in the corner. Not wanting to stereotype, but recognizing that he must be local, and may like boxing, I bought a round, and asked him where we might find an establishment that was showing it. He was a very nice guy, not judgmental, full of stories, a farmer, or former farmer, now trying to socialize wherever possible and afford the next drink. We went outside, where for the first time I realized the extent of his drunkenness. He was stumbling, and still headed for his car, which filled me with anxiety and guilt, so I gave him a 20, told him to go back in the bar, as I was hoping he would pass out, and be put to sleep by the extremely nice owners of the lounge, rather than drive off a cliff trying to help me find my away around the dark country roads. So I continued up Route 30, which after Roxbury takes you to a slightly larger town called Margaretville. It is a nice town, and one that I would later get to know much better as my wife was a co-owner of a tea and herb store in this village. For the time though, I knew it only as the town where the areas only supermarket, the A & P was located. I was to find the three bars in town, and met very nice people at all of them. Unfortunately it was prohibitively expensive to purchase a pay- for- view fight. I almost thought I had found the place when I noticed boxing on one of the 5 TVs in the bar. Unfortunately it was a videotape of an old Sugar Ray Leonard fight, which the owner must have had for 20 years. Still this was a good sign. At least I found a bar/restaurant with someone who liked boxing. I found the owner, who to my surprise was French (like my wife). We spoke a little French, and he got some pate and a bottle of Cote de Rhone from the kitchen, which was a pleasant surprise, and completely out of place. I asked him about the pay- for-view fight, and offered to pay for it myself. The rest of the people sitting at the bar seemed very enthusiastic about this suggestion and even offered to put in a few dollars towards it. The owner was thrilled and asked me how to do it. I told him that he can order pay for view right from the cables remote control. He then said “ what cable? We don’t have cable here. “So that idea was out. There was only minutes remaining until the bell, and the owner came up with a last minute solution. He lived upstairs from the restaurant, and since the kitchen was already closed, he grabbed a bottle of wine, and one of the young drunken men from the bar, and I joined him in his apartment, where we tuned into the fight on his radio. This was a classically beautiful moment that was not even ruined by the fact that we lost reception right as “are you ready to rumble” was sounded.

This is a happy story really, and one that was the first of many memorable experiences, and interesting people I have met in the Catskills. We have become very close with our neighbors, who Marine (my wife) even owned a business with. Our social life is also more fulfilling and honest than I could have ever imagined. We have remained friends with the couple who introduced us to the area, and consider them like family. We have dinner with artists, models, farmers, not for profit workers, all of which have become friends, not because of what they do, but because of who they are. The reason that I write this though is a bit sad. When retracing the locations of the evening of the Mayweather fight, I find that none of the places I went are still in business. Like so many other places during this recession businesses just can’t afford to stay open.

I have always heard that the while the Great Depression was terrible, it was also a time when there was a sense of community. I hope this was true, and even more so hope this is true now, but I worry that there is no place to go for a community experience.